“I wipe the tears from my eyes as I catch my breath and tie my horse to a tree. Galloping in the wind has whipped my hair and adrenalised my body completely. We’re staying in a small estancia and I’m out on another glorious day ride in the pampas, all kitted out in chaps. I can now comfortably ride one-handed, in true cowboy style. We settle down for a barbeque lunch in the middle of the grasslands. It feels so remote. All I can see is vast swathes of yellowy green grass stretching out to the horizon and lots of cattle.

Our gaucho companion passes round some of the local yerba maté made from crushed maté leaves and hot water. It’s pretty bitter but leaves me feeling alert and switched on – not a bad thing after a big lunch. I’m ready to get back in the saddle and ride. My mind feels clear and the wide open space gives a fresh sense of perspective. There’s no room for thinking. This is pure instinct.”